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Christian Dior
Christian Dior (January 21, 1905 – October 24, 1957), was an influential French fashion designer. He was born in Granville, Manche, Normandy, France. more...
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Early life
Christian Dior was heir to a fertilizer fortune. Under his parents wishes he attended Ecole des Sciences Politiques from 1920 to 1925. The family had hopes he would become a diplomat but Dior only wished to be involved in the arts. After leaving school he recived money from his father so that in 1928 he could open a small art gallery in Paris. Under his father's compromise for the money, the family name did not appear on the gallery. The walls were covered with the likes of Pablo Picasso and Max Jacob. After family disaster he was forced to shut down the gallery. In the 1930's Dior made a living by doing sketches for Haute Couture Houses. In 1938 he worked with Robert Piquet. In 1945 he designed for Marcel Boussac. Boussac, a man who'd made his fortune from fabic was interested in Diors new idea that involved using lots of layers of extravagant fabrics. Dior's first collection, Corolle Line, premiered in 1947. He established his main fashion house in 1949; Christian Dior New York Inc.
The New Look
The actual phrase the "New Look" was coined by the powerful editor-in-shief of Harpers Bazaar, Carmel Snow. Dior's debut collection, Corolle line, was first presented on February 12th, 1947. The look was refreshing and much more vuluptuous then the boxy shapes of the recent World War 2 styles. Dior is quoted as saying "I have designed flower women." His look employed fabrics lined predominantly with percale, boned, bustier-style bodices, hip padding, wasp-waisted corsets and petticoats that made his dresses flare out from the waist giving his models a very curvasious form. The hem of the skirt was very flattering on the calves and ankles giving a beautiful silhouette.At first there was some backlash to Diors genius form because of the amount of fabrics used in a single dress or suit but as soon as the War Time Shortages came to an end, opposition ceased. His designs represented consistent classic elegance, stressing the feminine look. The New Look revolutionized women's dress and reestablished Paris as the center of the fashion world after World War 2.
The Dior Years
The New Look was absolutely appropriate for the post-war era. Dior was correct in assuming that people wanted something new after years of war, brutality and hardship. His new look was reminiscent of the Belle Epoque ideal of long skirts, tiny waists and beautiful fabrics that his mother had worn in the early 1900s. Such a traditional concept of femininity also suited the political agenda. Women had been mobilised during the war to work on farms and in factories while the men were away fighting. In peacetime those women were expected to return to passive roles as housewives and mothers, leaving their jobs free for the returning soldiers. The official paradigm of post-war womanhood was a capable, caring housewife who created a happy home for her husband and children. Dior’s “flower women” fitted the bill perfectly.
Read more at Wikipedia.org
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